I've always thought people who hire private guides must be wealthy, and I suppose in many countries this is the case. When I went down to the simple, almost stoic hotel reception area to inquire about how we should go about getting to Lake Skadar and where exactly we should go once there, the kind attendant said he could get us a guide to take us around. After a few quick minutes, in walks Sasha. I couldn't follow the Montenegrin dialogue, but the end result was Sasha could in fact arrange two cars for our group of six adults and one child. They would take us to a waterfall en route, on a boat ride on the lake, a stop for lunch, and other scenic overlooks. All this for a mere 110 euro-- total! For the whole group! Yes, we will be ready in an hour...
Of course hopping in two random cars with two somewhat random locals may seem well, not the most advisable in an unknown country where you don't speak the language, but oh yes, I would definitely advise this. Actually, it turns out Sasha's dad owns the hotel so it wasn't as random.
On the way to Niagra Falls-- really, that is what the hotel reception guy said and the wooden sign at the site-- I noticed the topography reminded me of Morocco. And I was reminded that Morocco reminded me of Northern California, near San Francisco area where Bob, Donna, and Louisa live (Tim's brother and family). Vineyards are sprinkled along a two-lane road, cyprus trees tower at times, as mountains frame one's view. This is a sight we would see more than once throughout this welcoming day.
The falls were not quite Niagra-- more like Tahquamenon Falls-- impressive, yet rustic. Forceful, yet serene. Unlike most rivers in Michigan however, the water flowing towards the falls was a brilliant blue, like the Caribbean. While a few people were sunbathing along the rocky shore and others relaxed in a log-cabin cafe, it was quiet. It was calm. The only rushing sound I heard was that of my heart as I occasionally worried that I would slip climbing around the jagged rocks-- and even more so when Rae, my classmate's curiously adventurous daughter, edged closer and closer to the edge. Actually, the closer we got to the falls there was in fact a well, waterfall sound. Much better than that of the relaxing nature sounds I downloaded on my phone for sleepy time-- and complete with a light mist to spray away the warmth of the cloudless sky.
Continuing through vineyard countryside, the flora and fauna became more and more dense, with cane-like foliage canopied the one lane road leading us to our ultimate destination. Lake Skadar is the second largest lake in Europe. Having taken a two hour boat tour and then driving around the mountainsides at various overlooks, I can say in some parts felt like the Florida Everglades, other parts Lake Tahoe, then a mountainous valley of Delphi, Greece, and one canal with a stone bridge made me think of punting in Cambridge, England! We saw lily pads, old school fishermen, modern wave runners, wooden cabins, ancient castle ruins, cows blocking a bridge, monuments for World War II, unnamable birds, and so much more. Of course, all of this is what makes it uniquely Montenegrin-- except for the part of the lake that's in Albania, but we didn't go to that part. After all, as a Montengrin would contend, the best part is in Montengero.
The incredible scenery provided the backdrop for the many cultural connections we made with Sasha and Stefan, our boat captains, and cafe staff along the way. Stefan enjoyed practicing his English with us and teaching us many Montenegrin phrases. We learned that the phrase that means "please" is very similar to that of "I love you" so you have to be careful not to say "I''ll have a coffee, I love you" when ordering in a restaurant. After gazing out at the view atop the mountain-- a mountain in which I didn't think we would make down given the way Sasha and Stefan liked taking those switchback, cliffside, one lane roads-- I had said, "Wow, it's just soooo pretty" to which the handsome twenty-two year old Stefan responded by nodding in the direction of my young teacher friend, "Yes, and this is pretty too". We laughed, we joked, we lived. The world that seems so different, suddenly seems so similar.
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